Rome the secret Atlas

Far from the crowds and the usual clichés, Rome is still a reserve of well concealed treasures only revealed to those who know how to wander off the beaten track, whether residents or visitors. Far from the crowds and the usual clichés, Rome is still a reserve of well concealed treasures only revealed to those who know how to wander off the beaten track, whether residents or visitors. Admire exceptional works of art away from the tourist circuit, puzzle over a rare catoptric meridian, discover the remarkable motorised Rubens, enter into the secrets of St Peter's Square, say a prayer before an image of the Holy Face of Jesus like that deposited on the moon in 1968, protect your throat from the rigours of winter, find the insults immortalised on the fresco of a basilica…